I have to admit I am just a bit anxious over my purchase today.  I bought a MONSTER!!   It is one of those horse vans that carries 6-8 horses - 27' long, 8' wide and 11.5' tall!  Watch those bridges!    It is in excellent shape - only a few small rust spots at 32 yrs old.  Nice paint job. It used to belong to one of the local colleges.  The van is quite intimidating to drive and I am sure it will take me awhile to get used to it.

I am happy about the price - I paid less than what most people pay for a rusty bumper pull.  And yes, I had it checked over by a mechanic.

My plan is to convert the front section, approx 8' x 10' plus the GN/granny attic portion, into living quarters.   The one good thing about it is that I won't have to worry about any wonky angles - easy to calculate - but can be tough to cut/fit.  It already has a stereo system and A/C in the stall area as well as wiring for a generator that hooks straight into the regular gas tank - no more separate gas container to lug around  I will still have room for 4 horses - 5 if I have 2 small ones.

Two of the horses we trailer are 'special needs' boys.  One is way too long for a standard slant GN and can barely lift his tail to go potty and the other one likes to keep his head up in the clouds when he backs out of the trailer (I bought him an Equiface Saver so he does not crack his poll - this brand of head bumper stays on really well).  I am hoping this van will take care of most of these issues.  I am just worried that I have gotten issues I haven't even thought of yet!!   Especially since I think this will be a one-of-a-kind vehicle.

I will be posting about the conversion occasionally on my blog if anyone is interested.    http://uniquehorsetrailers.blogspot.com/

What make van and truck chassis is it...? Imperatore, Streamliner Deluxe, Luxury Liner, Trubuilt, Pegasus, Eby, Kentucky, Frank DiBella...? IH, Ford, GM...?

These folks may can help you with parts... They rebuild bodies every day.... http://www.frankdibella.com/

It is a low mileage 1977 International LoadStar 1800 5/2 with a Frank Imperatore body.  I have actually visited the Frank DiBella facility in PA.  Nicest people.  Jay spent about 3 hours with me explaining the differences between the models and what to look for when buying a used van.  I took a test drive in one of the smaller vans.  They have dozens of used vans there of all different body types in a wide range of conditions - from nearly new to just about rusted into the ground. Most of them are on consignment.  I got to tour the shop and see how the new ones (the DiBella models) are made and watch a refurbishment in progress.  Top notch facility and I highly recommend them.

I almost feel guilty not buying a van from Jay, but I paid about 1/20 the price of a comparable van.     I was in the right place at the right time today.....

V8 345, 392, MV-404 or MV-446 cid gas? Tilt fiberglass front end or gull wing? Air or hydraulic brakes?

Pictures, you know we got to have pictures...LOL!!!

Pictures - and they actually posted this time!!

This is the side where the LQ is going to go.....

Looks like a MV404 or MV446 engine... Love that padded up TWH on the door... Don't you dare take that off!!!

Jayne, congratulations on your "new" truck. Not too many people would purchase a thirty year old vehicle and consider it a wise decision. By your previous postings, you seem to have a good mechanical aptitude, and by enlisting the services of a mechanic before your purchase, you should have a reasonable idea of what is involved in your truck's restoration and modifications.

As the owner and collector of several old vehicles, some over half a century, I am constantly being asked if they nickel and dime me, or aren't I'm afraid they will break down? My answers are always, no. But they easily could. By using a proactive preventative maintenance, they are as reliable as any vehicle on the road today, and without the modern electronics, much easier to repair and trouble shoot. Once they have been updated, they are trouble free and enjoyable to use and own.

If you address each of the vehicle's systems, and upgrade and repair them before they act up, you can enjoy a trouble free ownership. Otherwise, you will become a familiar figure at your auto parts store and auto club.

Brakes. Not only should the drums and shoes/pads be inspected, but all the hard lines and master cylinder as well. The three flex lines, two to the front and one on the rear should be replaced. All the brake fluid should be flushed with new, and the wheel cylinders inspected for proper operation, and changed if necessary.

Cooling system. Every rubber component will die from old age in addition to wear. This will include your radiator and heater hoses. They should all be exchanged with new along with the clamps. The radiator should be removed, flushed and pressure checked and the water pump and thermostat replaced. In addition, every engine driven belt and every vacuum hose should also be replaced.

The electrical system can be easily updated. The alternator can be swapped out for a modern, larger capacity unit, which will help with recharging LQ batteries, and carrying the loads of more lights and accessories. The old original will die soon, changing it before it does will save you money.

The starter, and especially the solenoid, should be visually checked and the main wiring connection should be dissembled, cleaned and reinstalled using dielectric grease. All the battery terminals and B+ wiring should be inspected and changed if necessary.

If it is a gas motor, you should consider rebuilding or installing a rebuilt carburetor. Any rubber components have hardened by now, seals, accelerator pump, and floats will fail with age. The mechanical fuel pump will need replacing, and all the rigid lines should be inspected, and the flex lines replaced. If it has an electric pump, it should be exchanged for a new unit. The fuel tank (s) may need to be dropped, inspected and cleaned for rust. If it is a custom design, it can usually be recoated and rebuilt. If it's a stock unit, it is sometimes less expensive to replace. If there are multiple tanks, the fuel selector valves should be inspected for proper operation.

All of your dash idiot lights and gauges should be operating properly. An improperly acting unit cannot predict an expensive failure or problem. They may be inoperative because of malfunctioning sending units, oil pressure, temp gauge, fuel sending units etc. Check and trouble shoot each one. Adding additional gauges to replace any idiot lights is not expensive, and can give you a much better idea of how well things are operating.

When your truck was built, they didn't have the superior lubricants, that we have readily available today. All of the fluids should be drained and replaced with modern synthetics. They are interchangeable with the old and will not cause any seal problems. Your components will run cooler, and their wear will almost stop. This would include the differential, transmission, engine and power steering unit.

Depending on your engine and if it's gas, you may have an issue with unleaded fuel and the valves. Most truck engines have hardened valve seats and stems that will survive without the old leaded gas additives. Someone more versed in the subject of truck engines than I, could help advise whether you may need a fuel additive or not. A couple of my vehicles do, but not all.

The truck's suspension should be thoroughly inspected and updated. The entire front end, tie rod ends, ball joints or king pins, power steering rack, bushings, any suspension component that moves should be checked. The shocks should all be changed, they die from old age and rust as well as usage. The spring pacs should be checked for cracked or broken leaves, and the shackle bolts inspected for integrity and wear. 

All these changes may sound daunting and expensive. You have saved a considerable amount of money on your initial purchase. By performing these updates, your truck can be as safe and reliable as anything on the road. By not doing so, you will always be subject to breakdowns and poor reliability, something you do not want to consider when hauling horses.

Again, congratulations. I wish you a long and happy ownership. Welcome to the "oldies but goodies".

Gard

Unless your van's chassis and running gear are completely worn out, which because of your mechanic's inspection should not be the case, most of the work I described can be done for ~$2K +. Much of the work is within a DIYer's capabilities. This is considerably less expensive, than replacing a chassis with another used chassis, that too, will also need upgrades.

Once the upgrades are done, you can enjoy many years of trouble free driving.

The one concern I would have is since the unit is 32 years old and the generator is all ready hooked up to the main fuel tank is that if your fuel level is low and your running the generator that is doesn't run your fuel tank dry. 

I know that in later years when manufactures would hookup a generator fuel line into the main fuel tank that they use a pickup sending unit with two different length pickup tubes.  One used for the generator was shorter so you won't drain your fuel tank empty if you were running your generator with a low fuel load.  Just food for thought.

Thanks for all the valuable input!  I would have replied sooner, but I spent the past two days on horseback    That punchlist will come in handy Gard.  I have found that there are also quite a few forums out there just for those big trucks.

I will be picking up the truck tomorrow if I can get away from work on time.

Retento - not sure if I'm going to keep the TWH on the door.  I have a palomino appy that I use for endurance riding - he might get offended.

Any questions about your new IH Loadstar 1800 truck can be directed over here... http://www.redpowermagazine.com/forums/index.php?showforum=10

There's a few old farmer/mechanics that hang out over there...

Hi!

I have been researching these vans for a couple of months now. I am very interested in getting a used 3-4 horse model much like yours. Thanks so much for posting about your "project". Congratulations!!

The responses from others have been very helpful.

What I am interseted in is insurance on this type of vehicle. Any input/advice would be much appreciated!!

Thanks,

Lynda

Speaking of Frank Imperatore ,  my dad told me how he originally got in the horse business.  I guess his daughter had a horse that they could not keep in the fence because it would alway jump out,  they were so frustrated and ready to sell the horse when someone said ,  why don't you take it so some horse shows.  So they did and were very successful and Imperatore decided to start making horse vans.  I have no idea if the story is true or not but it is a good story.

Wibada - I checked with my insurance company and found that insurance was quite inexpensive.  The initial issue I ran into was that the insurance guy did not know what to call it and did not think the company covered that type of vehicle - he was assuming it was going to be considered commercial.  He ended up callling the main office and they told him just to put in the VIN into the electronic form and see what came out.   

I highly recommend that if you can, get up to PA and see the Frank DiBella sales lot - you will have quite an education.  I had actually done a cost/benefit analysis on purchasing one of these vehicles - this one was so cheap that it threw that evaluation out the window.  A comparable one would have cost me about 12 times as much at Frank DiBellas.  I had also wanted the 3/4 horse model, but after seeing them I realized that there is very little storage and what is there is very inconvenient - it is in the granny attic and the horses butts are up against it so you have to unload a horse to get to your stuff - the horses face to the rear).  The 4th horse actually takes up the area in front of the other three so there is NO room left at all!  I only found one that had the horses facing forward so that the granny attic was accessable when the horses were loaded.  Unfortunately it was rusted out and the engine was blown AND cost 5 times what I paid for mine!

Spin Doctor - the truck weighs 17K empty and probably about 22K fully loaded - it is titled up to 24,499 lbs.  In Virginia, the limit for a CDL starts at 26001 lbs.   In addition, it is registered as an antique vehicle.  I spent quite a bit of time with the DMV discussing the different ways to register it (farm use, commercial, antique etc) to get the best value and still be within the law. We selected the antique option as I will NEVER drive the thing to work or the grocery store - at 8 MPG I would have to be CRAZY!!!  I will be taking it only to shows and driving it only about once a month - all allowable within the antique designation.

retento - it has a 446!  And don't hate me, but I took the TWH decals off - they are on my refrigerator

Thanks for the promising info, Pinkmouse!

I spoke with Jay at DiBella's. Nice guy! There's a new one that came in not advertised on the web site. Sounds good, but they are still abit more than I wanted to spend on such an older vehicle. I'd love to find a deal like yours! If you get wind of any, PM me!!

As far as the way the horses ride, I prefer they ride facing backwards. EVERY time mine are in an open stock trailer not tied, they ride facing backwards. I have asked many who use a stock trailer and they have stated that most horses ride that way. So I figured that's the most natural way for them to stand. I'm not sure if being in a stock trailer has something to do with it or not (the visual aspect for the horse)?

I do like your plan of a small LQ for yours!! You'll have to keep us updated on the progress!

  Topkick would be a GMC, Kodiac would be a Chevrolet... Check the engine numbers real good, it may be a 6.0 liter 366 bigblock rather than a 427. Both engines look the same.. Seen 427's pulled out and 366's put in the place of them, 427 written all over the valve covers.  Good luck with your project, we all like pictures, before and after!!