I have definetely got the cart before the horse...I recently purchased a new aluminum 3 horse gooseneck with a 4 ft short wall LQ that I'll be pulling my horse and pony around in.  I now am trying to decide on a truck to pull it with.  I keep hearing that a 1/2 ton pick-up won't pull a trailer because it will strain the engine.  Is this true?  I prefer buying a 1/2 ton and paying the gas on a 1/2 ton than a 3/4 ton, if possible.  Any advice?   

RollinPonies makes good points.  Ultimately only you can decide what is right for you, your trailer and your needs.  Another point to consider is how often will you be pulling the trailer versus running around empty.  1/2T vs. 3/4T vs. 1T also has a lot to do with GCVW (Gross Combined Vehicle Weight), i.e. how much can you tow and how much weight can the bed carry.  My gooseneck hitch is rated at 30,000# GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) and 7,000# tongue weight - both of which exceed the rated capacity of my 1T.

I have an '03 F-350 V10 (gas) dually and pull a GN weighing about 6,900 empty and rated at 12,168 GVW.  It does fine on level roads, but I can watch the RPMS jump on hills and the gas gauge drop whenever I pull the trailer.  However, I do a reasonable amount of driving with it empty, so it is a good compromise (not to mention gas is cheaper than diesel).

So 3/4T more pulling power, less gas/diesel mileage (assuming different rear ends 3.xx on 1/2T vs. 4.xx on 3/4T), more money.  But then again, the dealers may be more willing to give a good price on a 3/4T cause they don't move as fast as a 1/2T.  Look around, surf the web, be open minded.

Best of luck in your search.

Go to any horse event where there is a parking lot full of GN Living Qtr trailers and count the number of them being pulled by a 1/2T truck....bet you won't find many....for good reason. 3/4T and 1T trucks are made to haul and pull, not only is a 1/2 T motor not sufficient, neither are the brakes, suspension, or transmission.

KP

This is exactly right, I almost never see people at ropings or horse shows with ½ ton trucks as their tow vehicles, and with good reason, ½ ton trucks aren’t made for pulling heavy loads like most horse trailers. If you do see them, they are pulling a small bumper pull trailer, I don’t think I’ve ever seen one pulling a gooseneck.

What is even more important than engine and transmission in a tow vehicle is suspension, brakes and wheel base. Of course you need adequate engine power to pull your vehicle, but you also need a truck that can handle the extra weight on the suspension & brakes. Even if the body looks the same, 1/2 ton trucks are very different underneath from 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. They are often on a lighter duty frame and have much lighter suspension and smaller brakes than the ¾ and 1-ton trucks. If something bad happens, a blowout, a bad stretch of road, a horse comes ‘unglued’ in the trailer etc., you can get into very big trouble with a trailer that is too much for the truck.

Because we couldn’t afford anything larger, our first truck was a ½ ton truck, with a tow package. The trailer we chose was a CM Playday, which is a pretty small two-horse trailer, we chose this trailer because we were very aware of our ½ ton truck’s limitations. As soon as we could afford it we moved up to a ¾ ton truck and then eventually to 1-ton trucks. The difference in braking and stability between the ½ ton and ¾ ton trucks was really significant not only under normal driving conditions, but especially noticeable on rough roads or in wind. There is also a big difference in stability between ¾ and 1-ton trucks.

As for the motor and transmission, while you may save a little on fuel, you will probably find a shortened life for both of these items, especially the transmission, if they are two small for what you are pulling or carrying.

If it were me, I would put safety over saving a few $ on fuel and would get the ¾ ton truck. As you can see from my signature, I pull a 3-horse aluminum gooseneck with a 4-foot short wall, I wouldn’t pull a trailer that large with a ½ ton truck under any circumstances, except maybe under the most dire emergency.

Happy Trails,

I don't know about the 3 horse gn, but I pulled a 2 horse gn w/living qtrs (26ft long) from Michigan to Boston, Ma and back with 2 16+ hh TB's in there.  I had NO problem whatsoever, no straining through the mountains, and got decent gas mileage.  I have a 97 Dodge Ram 1500 Magnum v8.   I estimate the weight was well over 8000 pounds.  I was able to haul safely, stop safely.  We went through rain, high elevations, you name it.  She hauled beautifully.  I recently hauled the trailer to North Carolina, after selling it.  She hauled great through those mountains as well.  Alot of people use 3/4 tons because that is all they have been told to haul with.   If your 1/2 ton is a new one (90's or later) they are built tougher, and able to do heavier duties.  The magnum v8 in the Dodge Ram is great.  I have never had any problem with it, and I have hauled all over with it.  I currently have over 110,000 miles on this truck and she still purrs like she is brand new.  It is all about maintenance.  If you keep your oil changes regular, replace things before they wear out, have good tires, check your trailer brakes, and get all your joints taken care of, there is no reason you can't haul a 3 horse trailer.  I have seen folks haul a 3 horse trailer here in Michigan.  We have lots of steep hills, and yet you see them at the horse campgrounds alot.   It is just a matter of perspective.  *Also want to add mine is not a 4 x 4 either.

Just my two cents worth.

Linda

one thing you have to realize even if your 1/2 ton truck can pull it it might not be legal wt wise.  YOu are most likely gonna be over wt especially with a small lq or wkender 3 h. 

I have a 3/4 ton gasser and a 18 ft 3h steel titan renegrade trailer with a 4ft short wall lq/wkender.   After figuring the what the legal wts are i find that I am over my pickups wt limit when I haul 4 horses in it.  I was looking at getting a 4 h and didnt think i would need to get a bigger truck.  I am wrong on thinking that.   I have hauled 5 horses in my trailer with my truck and it pulled it just fine.  

If you are ever in an accident and you are over wt you will probably be at fault then.   You want to make sure your truck is gonna be safe when stuck in a emergency situation.  Want to make sure you are gonna be able to stop or handle the truck.

I dont think many people realize this for I often see alot of people pulling trailers that are undertrucked.  

I agree - the bigger the better -  diesel is also better than gasoline engine for pulling a trailer. 

Again...it is all a matter of perspective.  I have seen my ram 1500 pass some of the bigger trucks hauling up in the mountains.  As far as diesel is concerned yes it has more pull power to a slight degree, but you are going to pay a lot more in fuel costs and maintenance.  If you can afford it...go for it..why not?  For those of us who do our homework, we know what a good newer vehicle can do.  Todays 1/2 tons are the 60's version of a 3/4 or even a 1 ton.  They are built for more pulling power, longer durability, and more fuel efficient than those in the 60, 70, or even the 80's. 

If you intend on hauling Clydesdales, Warmbloods, etc..yep get the bigger truck, but half the time I see folks hauling a 3 horse trailer with maybe 2 horses in it! 

Linda

Ignorance is not a legal defense, (just try it in court ... LOL)  Trailer places sell trailers, not legal advice

There are two issues with weight.

1- your state's regulations. For example:  A class C (Reg car) license in NC may tow a vehicle up to 10,000 pounds GVWR.  (notice this is the rating, not the actual weight) More than that, I would need a class "A" Generally if your vehicle's GVWR is more than 26,000 pounds you need a CDL anyway.  Besides the fines & hassle... Getting your loaded trailer impounded begets all sorts of problems with your horses.  Even if you can find a driver with the appropriate license.

2-Your tow vehicle's CGVWR must be high enough to pull the loaded trailer.  Otherwise you're over loaded and in a bad spot if involved in a wreck.  Actually, you're in a bad spot already since you're overloaded.

I might beg to differ.  As a class A driver, I find that our class 8 trucks are usually rated for 52k, but are registered for 104k.  At a DOT inspection, all that is checked is the registration to make sure we paid for 104k.

Stuck:  What is your point? 

If a truck is rated for 22,000 pounds (GM one ton diesels for example) combined gross vehicle weight rating by the manufacturer.  Is it acceptable to have a trailer & truck weighing 104,000 pounds if your registration says so? 

I would say not.  Regardless of the licensing state.  No one ignores the laws of physics without peril.

Ok,heres some clarification of the legal issue for NON COMMERCIAL, PRIVATE USE RECREATINAL PICK UPS.

When your trailer weight exceeds the MAXIMUM ALLOWED towing capacity set by the manufacturer and you exceed your CGVWR by hauling said trailer, any accident you are involved in while MOVING, other than being rear ended possibly, WILL be your fault. As you have the vehicle operating outside the rated limitations as set forth by said manufacturer. In english this means you up the creek, no paddle, and going to lose everything you ever thought of owning because you "CAN" pull a trailer with a 1/2 ton truck. Your insurance company will NOT cover your loss because you made the choice. And WHEN you go to court, not if, and are SUED by the other parties involved for damages, you WILL LOSE. Been there, seen it, don't ever want it to happen to me.

My point is that if we use the manufacturer's GCWR as LAW,  then any commercial vehicle accident would automatically be the fault of the driver & trucking company.

Did you actually read Chevy's definition of GCWR?  I picked it up for you from here       http://www.chevrolet.com/silverado/specifications/

There is alot of room for interpertation there. 

I believe that with enough insurance money at stake, any lawyer can eventually get a judgement against a party that failed to control their vehicle.  Overloaded or not.

Stuck believes the laws of physics cannot even be applied if you don't read the fine print.

If doing the horse thing with a gooseneck trailer or even a bumper pull of THREE horse configuration AND about to BUY a new or USED truck if even gas GET a 2500.They just PLAIN work better and hold up better towing any kind of weight.SAFER also.I have a 1500.It hauls feed,pinestraw,grocerys.years back I even pulled with a 2500 350 etc.But NOT a 1500 for any serious travel towing anything more then a bass boat.

OK, being a 1/2 ton owner, I felt compelled to put in my 2 cents worth. There are several things that would be helpful to know before giving you a definite opinion on your question. First, what kind of engine (towing capacity) are you considering in a truck? How often will you be towing a trailer and for what distances? How much does your trailer weigh? Will you only be pulling your horse and pony or will you eventually want to pull 2 full horses or 3 horses? What type of terrain will you be pulling the trailer on?

I have a 1/2 ton Chevy Silverado with a towing capacity of about 8,100 lbs. I own a 2H GN with dressing room (which could be converted to LQ) and a 4' SW on the Dressing room. Trailer empty weighs 3,500 lbs. I generally haul 1 horse but on occasion will haul 2 (figure 2,300 lbs. for the 2 horses and another 300 lbs. for tack and misc.). Fully loaded I will haul about 6,100 lbs which is completely within the specs of my vehicle. Can I feel the trailer when I'm hauling.......of course. Does my truck struggle to make it up hills.....no. Now, I haul maybe 2 times a month and travel distances of between 15 and 50 miles. My truck is being used as my primary means of transportation about 95% of the time and the 5% that I need it to haul, it's for short distances. Someone suggested going to an event and see how many 1/2 ton trucks you see in the parking lot. Well, not all of us show and use our trucks in that capacity, so not all of us need 3/4 tons or diesels. If I were showing or hauling longer distances, I too would probably get a 3/4 ton truck but for what I am needing it for, a 1/2 ton is just fine. By the way, I get 22 MPG on my little 1/2 ton......hard to justify getting something bigger that gets 15 MPG or less for what I am using it for.

You need to look at the whole picture before deciding what vehicle will fit your needs the best. If you are borderline, it's always best to err on the side of caution. If you plan on adding a horse in the near future, go ahead and plan for that now when you get a truck, but bigger isn't always better for everyone.

The rating that will most often be exceeded first with a Gooseneck trailer will be the "Gross Vehicle Weight Rating" GVWR of the truck.

This is how much total weight is on axles of the truck. This includes: The truck, passengers, cargo in the bed, and most importantly the hitch weight of the trailer!

Most half ton trucks weigh about 5,000lbs and have GVWR ratings of around 6,500lbs depending on bed configuration, 4x4 etc...

As an example: 2006 Chevy 1500 4x4 extended cab 6.5' bed:

GVWR =6,400lbs curb wieght= 5,050lbs: leaving 1350lbs for people, gear, and hitch weight.

so for example in Champhorse's case, you have a loaded gooseneck of 6,100lbs. For gooseneckss you can assume roughly 20-25% of that weight is on the hitch. Using 20%, thats 1220lbs. So... You have a total of 130lbs left for all passengers and any gear you have in the truck.

Champhorse I'm not implying you don't have a safe setup and your particular truck may have higher ratings, but you are likely close to, if not exceeding your GVWR even though you are well below the "maximum" tow rating listed for your truck. Your scenario is very common. And the only way to know for sure is to weigh your rig, since there is no way to exactly determine the hitch weight otherwise.

The Truck manufactures list the absolute maximum tow rating they can to look better than the competition. In reality you can't achieve the max tow rating with a gooseneck as you will exceed the GVWR. You could theoritically do it with a bumper pull since the hitch weight is typically only 10-15% of the trailer weight, not 20-25% for a GN and that is how they get away with listing such numbers.

Whether or not it is safe or even legal to exceed your GVWR I don't know. I choose to follow the manufactures ratings closely, even though they make them slightly difficult to intepret!

My trailer doesnt have a rear tack so there is room for me to get 2 avg sized horses in the rear stall comfortably.    To get 5 in I take out the front divider and swing the rear one and latch into the front divider hole.   Then I am able to get 2 avg horses in the front stall comfortably at a slant and 3 avg sized horses side by side facing the head of the trailer comfortably.    With the divider moved up to the first ones hole it make the rear stall square and the front stall kinda of pie shaped. 

I cant exactly remember the gvwt for my truck but I have figured it out a few times and with 4 horses I am over.   The limit on my truck might be 12000 lbs.   You usually add the wt of the truck, trailer, horses, tack, equip, hay ect.. 

Saddlebredlover,

I have an 02 GMC Ext Cab rwd 1/2 ton.  It has the 4.8 V-8 engine.  I pull safetly and within my vehicle specs' a 1995 3 horse Sundowner Sunlite 3' shortwall (no lq and two horses in the trailer).  I live in NW Indiana, so it is pretty flat all around where we go.  You need to find out what your trailer weighs loaded with all your equipment.  Then you can calculate your trailer weight. then you can see if you can get by using a 1/2 ton or if you need to step up to a 3/4 ton.