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Can you move the divider wall in a slant load?

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cmorah
Reg. Mar 2010
Posted 2010-03-20 12:56 PM (#117853)
Subject: Can you move the divider wall in a slant load?


New User


Posts: 3

Location: Wilton, CA

Newbie here,

Have looked for posts on this subject and couldn't find anything... probably not using correct key words. 

Looking for opinions/info on moving the wall between horses and dressing room.  Currently have 3' short wall dressing room and 4 horse slots in my 2002 Logan gooseneck.  Don't need more than 3 horse slots; want more room to set up a LQ in front.  Doesn't have a walk-thru door.  While we're on the subject of what it doesn't have, it also doesn't have any LQ wiring and sleeping area has just 32" of  headroom.  On the plus side, I own it free and clear. 

Any guidance?

 

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301duster
Reg. Jan 2009
Posted 2010-03-21 8:32 AM (#117870 - in reply to #117853)
Subject: RE: Can you move the divider wall in a slant load?


Veteran


Posts: 188
100252525
Location: Ingalls, Ks

I guess my answer to that is yes you could move the wall.  I always figure if someone else can build it I can rebuild it.  The way I would look at it, is figure out what your trailer is worth today.  Figure out about how much you're going to invest in time and labor into putting a LQ into it.  Then the way I see it figure the residual value of the shell in a few years and take about 20% off of it.  Most of the time homemade LQ's don't bring much more than shell price.  Taking into account the mod. of moving the slant wall that too will devalue the trailer.  Most people shy away from modificatoins (I know I do).  Then compare that to a factory weekender or full LQ how you want it (that maintains good residual value).  See which set of numbers you can live with and go for it.  Also consider one that someone has already done what you're wanting to do.  Most of them only bring about shell value.  Is that right? maybe not, that's just how it is where I'm at.

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Cowgirl-h
Reg. Feb 2010
Posted 2010-03-21 12:41 PM (#117877 - in reply to #117853)
Subject: RE: Can you move the divider wall in a slant load?


Regular


Posts: 85
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Location: Galahad, AB, Canada

We're almost finished our DIY Featherlite - it has a 4' shortwall with no access to the back stall. I can see how tempting it would be to change the space of the front stall and put it in the trailer, but that is one project that I wouldn't be in a rush to do ourselves. The thought of removing a wall and putting up another a few feet away gives me the creeps - I know that wall has some structural use as well as being a physical divider, and I don't think it would be worth taking the chances with.

Our trailer also didn't have any electrical in it, except for the exisiting 12V lighting. And I would say that the electrical end of it was the hardest part of our job. Consider this. When you put in lighting and plug-ins in a house, you put the small box part of the lighting/plus-ins between the spaces of the two layers of gyprock walls. In your living quarters you are going to have a much tinier space - either a couple of inches if you use slats, or else no space if you screw plywood directly over the insulation (which is what we did) That means you have to be really creative where you're going to put your plug-ins. In our cases we installed alot of the electrical work into the cupboards themselves, that way the box is out of of sight but accessible. My husband is not an electrician, but had experience with doing his shop and other jobs before we started, I think anyone with less experience would have to hire it out. I imagine almost anyone could do the basics - cut the hole through the aluminum skin, install the connection so you can plug your trailer in, but going from there was way over my head!

As for the height of your bed, I think it would be adequate. Our space in the nose is only 3' or so, and we don't feel crowded. It's comfy for sleeping, but not ideal to sit up there and read before bed too long!

Before going further i would do alot of looking at info on this site. I went back over 80 pages when doing our homework, and after you've invested that time (it took me a few weeks) you finally start to get an idea of what you have ahead of you. I don't regret our work on our trailer - the total cost for me was about $2200 - most of that was buying cabinets from Totem, but we put a month of work onto the project. That wasn't full time, but still some long days with two of us working steadily. If we ever did another trailer we'd be MUCH faster because you learn alot as you go along the way. We've had people warn us that most DIY trailers aren't worth what you put into them, but my husband was very particular and fussy, and our trailer looks better than most custom done trailers! Honestly. So it can be done if you have the time, are willing to put in good quality products, and have some experience with building/electricity. Our 4' shortwall has given us plenty of room for cooking, eating and sleeping, but we choose to not install a toilet or running water - I think that was over our head and would make the place too crowded. We're willing to survive with a portable toilet (I'm normally plugged into arenas at shows, anyhow, so can use their toilets and showers most of the time) and we can haul our own water and use dish pans. It's still a huge improvement over tenting, and in my opinion better than staying at a motel.

So my answer is - you can do alot with 4 feet. You will be fine in your nose, if you aren't really large people. But I would not move the divider wall. And I would get help with the electricity if you haven't already got some experience - a trailer is much tougher than a house. Good luck.

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