When venting a fridge in the horse trailer, how do you mount the wall vent. All the vents I have seen are around 21"W x 14"H and my wall studs are 14" apart. Are there some vents that would fit in a 14" space that I haven't found somewhere, or how do I make it work? This is a 1st time remodel. Thanks
Posted 2011-01-26 9:26 AM (#129287 - in reply to #129255) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Elite Veteran
Posts: 785 Location: Tenn/Ala.
You need the full width for the vent, without the stud(s). Customarily a framed opening is welded in the place for the vent. When a new trailer is being built for an LQ, the "cutout" placements are of particular importance. You can also add them later with a bit of cutting and welding as required. You may have a similar issue with furnace and water heater.
Posted 2011-01-26 2:01 PM (#129302 - in reply to #129255) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Regular
Posts: 69 Location: Washington DC
I have a couple extra vents that I got when I was doing my DIY that the company accidentally shipped me. I'll check when I get home an measure but it seems to me that I ran into the same problem and found some smaller ones. I'll be sure and post if I have the size your looking for. the installation was pretty simple. I just used a jig saw and cut the holes in the aluminum (after marking of course) put the puddy on the vents frame, stuck it in place, drilled out the holes and riveted it in place, then put the face back on. I'll see if I have a picture too.
Posted 2011-01-26 6:29 PM (#129317 - in reply to #129255) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 379 Location: Missouri
If possibly make the top vent through the roof. The cooling efficiency of the fridge will be way better. Our previous trailer had the vents out the side, I had to add a fan to suck the heat out of the compartment.
Posted 2011-01-27 10:12 AM (#129351 - in reply to #129255) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Member
Posts: 46 Location: Wis.
Thank you, I measured the space last night and the distance between the studs is 17". I think we are going to just go and buy a new bar type fridge and go that route and not start cutting and re-bracing the wall for the fridge vent. We talked about it, and as far as running the fridge with gas/electric, we are normally plugged into a electric source or run a generator for most of our trips. I think for the cost of maybe $180 to $200 we will just go this route. That is what I had in the LQ before we started the redo and that worked just fine. Thanks for the help, probably will be on here asking more questions later when we start installing the water tanks and electrical stuff.
Posted 2011-01-27 4:05 PM (#129363 - in reply to #129302) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Member
Posts: 47 Location: Findlay, OH
I'm interested in these too. We bought a Dometic RM2352 and our opening is 18 3/4. Even if we put a roof vent in, they still have to have a bottom vent also. Any pictures would help a lot.
Posted 2011-01-28 10:49 AM (#129395 - in reply to #129255) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Member
Posts: 46 Location: Wis.
I actually called Exiss and talked to someone there about this. He told me that you would basically cut the wall stud and box it in as if it were a window. Just to make sure the framed box supported the new frame for the vent. We opted to just buy a new bar refrigerator. Actually they have a lot more usable space than the dometic fridge we were going to install.
Posted 2011-01-28 1:02 PM (#129408 - in reply to #129395) Subject: RE: Fridge Vents
Member
Posts: 47 Location: Findlay, OH
I had an electric fridge in my last trailer. I used it one time in 2 years. We usually trail ride at places without hookups. Which is why our new trailer we are doing all propane. This is our first time on a conversion and didn't expect this to be a problem. The guy sold it saying he ordered it ready to put living quarters in, just never got around to it. We already bought the propane fridge. I'm afraid this may be beyond our skill level, and may have to bite the bullet & pay to have it installed. Thanks for your reply, Heidi.
Fridge Vents
