My tow vehicle got totaled when someone ran a red light, T-boned it, and flipped it. I just picked up a 2015 RAM 3500 to replace it, and got it with the integrated brake controller and gooseneck prep package with the plug in the box on the driver's side wall. RAM's wiring diagram doesn't look quite the same as the one in my Hart manual.Can anyone tell me if they do actually match? I'm a bit leery of just trying it out in case I blow fuses that I then I have to try to find. I've had my new truck for 2 days so am nervous about it!Thanks!
Posted 2015-03-14 3:04 PM (#162861 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Expert
Posts: 1989 Location: South Central OK
Have you tried calling Hart? They are very nice and easy to deal with from my past experiences. They should be open Monday morning. Glad you made it through such a nasty wreck and are back ready to play with your horses again.
Posted 2015-03-14 5:19 PM (#162862 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Member
Posts: 46 Location: MO
I have emailed them (last night). I was just hoping someone with a new Ram could tell me if it was already wired correctly. I'm anxious to plug it in just to check. :)
Posted 2015-03-14 8:16 PM (#162863 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
I have a 2012 and and a 2015 and as long as your trailer has not been changed you should be good to go, I pull alot of different trailers and have not found one yet that is not correct.
Posted 2015-03-15 10:53 AM (#162870 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Member
Posts: 46 Location: MO
For anyone curious, all of the lighting worked fine. New truck is taller than the old, so have to take the coupler off and remove some adjustment collars. Of course I don't have wrenches big enough for this and am worried about getting the tight enough because I don't have an impact wrench either and suspect they were put on with one.The shackles on the safety chains are not long enough to fit through the very wide attachment loops with the hitch.
Posted 2015-03-15 12:10 PM (#162871 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
is the coupler on a pipe that slides inside of another??? if so the adjustment bolts do not have to be that tight. you can probably use a large crecent and a short cheater pipe to get them broken loose.
Posted 2015-03-16 9:38 AM (#162881 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 350 Location: Penrose, Colorado
I think you will find the just getting them wrench tight will be enough, you just need them so they will not let the tube slide up into the other pipe when loaded, do not get me wrong they need to be tight but not over done.
Posted 2015-03-16 2:01 PM (#162885 - in reply to #162880) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Expert
Posts: 2953 Location: North Carolina
Originally written by n2stitch on 2015-03-16 5:10 AM
Yes, the coupler slides inside another tube. They also have lock nuts so hopefully don't have to be torqued too ridiculously high.Lalita
A bit of oil or (better) anti-seize) on the threads will reduce the amount of torque required. And keep the threads from seizing together so you can adjust them again a few years later.
Posted 2015-03-16 4:07 PM (#162886 - in reply to #162885) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Member
Posts: 46 Location: MO
My plan exactly, thank you!!
A bit of oil or (better) anti-seize) on the threads will reduce the amount of torque required. And keep the threads from seizing together so you can adjust them again a few years later.
Posted 2015-03-17 4:16 PM (#162896 - in reply to #162889) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Member
Posts: 46 Location: MO
I used to have a 1997 Ford F-250 7.3L powerstroke 4x4.Now I have a RAM 3500 6.3L Cummins with Aisin transmission 4x4.Still working out the kinks in hooking up, but stats are that the new truck has over double the torque about 1.5 times as much horsepower so should be good.I have to get new clevis hooks for my safety chains (the loops on the RAM as part of the GN prep package are too big for my existing hooks.)I also have to adjust the height of my coupler since the RAM is taller.Anyone have experience with a truck similar to mine and a newer model GN Hart? I'm hoping it can be adjusted level and clear the rails. If not, I'll be having the trailer blocked and not looking forward to that.
Posted 2015-03-18 6:12 AM (#162900 - in reply to #162896) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Veteran
Posts: 134
This option might not be practical for you, but I had a similar situation and my husband talked me into putting a flatbed on my truck. This was after I had crunched my rails and tailgate while going through a small dip and turning at the same time into a friends driveway. Now that I have one I would never go back to having a box again. The added benefit for me other than not having to worry about clearance was the added weight for winter driving on slick roads as I live in cold country.
Posted 2015-03-18 11:42 AM (#162902 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Extreme Veteran
Posts: 402 Location: Valentine, NE
I won a new Dodge 3500 last yr. Bought a new Hart trailer last summer. Went to hook it up, and discovered had to cut about 1.5" of the female end of the gooseneck receiver tube off to allow the male tube to go "up" high enough to get trailer level. Is ~2.5 inches from the box rails. Don't pull this trailer much with the Dodge as have a medium duty that is used 90% of the time, so not a big issue. Would like to put a flatbed on the Dodge but that would screw up the custom vinyl wrap that covers the pickup. Oh well.....I did talk to Hart before I did that and they said no problem, hack away...
Good luck!
Posted 2015-03-19 8:13 AM (#162907 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Veteran
Posts: 124 Location: Calgary, Canada
The previous owner of our LQ trailer also cut a portion of the gooseneck receiver tube (exterior tube - female) to get the trailer lower. It was flame cut with a torch which left it a bit messy. I still need to dress it up with a grinder and repaint it, but it has not hit the top of the job list yet. I would recommend doing a mechanical cut on it instead with a pipe cutter if room or mechanical saw (hack saw or sawzall) if you decide to trim this. My concern on a flame cut is structural integrity with a heat affected zone. I know in the oil patch that flame cut lifting points on equipment have been banned for this reason, and machine cut lift points must be used. I know that this is not a lifting point, but I would be cautious just the same and do a mechanical cut.
Posted 2015-03-21 2:46 PM (#162937 - in reply to #162859) Subject: RE: 2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
Veteran
Posts: 264 Location: Sumas Washington
I would assume the cut to the tube was at the inner top, This area should have very little effect on the structure of your hitch. IF that cut was near the lowert hitch I would worry about it.
2015 Ram 3500 / 2011 Hart wiring question
