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Trailer Talk
Replacing floor
 MrTruck, txdad, windy Last Activity 2014-10-23 10:42 AM
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jaluhn

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Joined: 2005-02-04
Location: Davis CA

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Subject : Replacing floor
Posted : 2006-01-16 10:59 PM
Post #35574

Looks like all the recent rain out here (sacramento) finally did the trick on the floor in my old 4 horse, and I now have several board sowing severe rotting. Not sure if the rest are damaged as well, but I will probably replace them as well. My question is, what to use? I was figuring on using generic doug fir 2x12's (what's in there now) waterproofed somehow. I have also considered using pressure treated (green) lumber instead. Since it's usually used in direct contact with soil, I would think it could withstand the usual water/horse doings/etc of being a trailer floor. But, I don't think I have ever seen it used. Is there a reason? I know the treating chemical is somewhat poisonous (I think) but I don't see how this would be an issue. Doesn't seem that much more expensive, either. Barring that, what are ya'll's opinion on what to treat the boards with. (using regualr lumber) My though has always been to just put a good heavy coat of good outdoor paint on them, but other's have suggested tomphson's sealer, and I have seen used motor oil used to treat lumber as well. (probably wouldn't do that, but it did seem to work) Thanks ~ John
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gemm

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Subject : RE: Replacing floor
Posted : 2006-01-17 12:44 AM
Post #35576 - In reply to #35574

My '92 Featherlite has 2" thick pressure treated floor boards. Every year I worry I'll need to replace them, but they're still in great shape! I don't know about the poisons used in the pressure treated boards. If you have an enclosed trailer, it might be something to be concerned about. My stock trailer hasn't been a problem. Lots of folks on here seem to like the Rumber floors. Do a search for more info on those. Good luck!
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hounddog

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Subject : RE: Replacing floor
Posted : 2006-01-17 7:04 AM
Post #35582 - In reply to #35574

I've used pressure treat in several.I did have one that two years later looked like new and I found a soft spot.Carpenter ants! Actualy had several bad boards.I was like WOW.
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huntseat

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Subject : RE: Replacing floor
Posted : 2006-01-17 8:26 AM
Post #35591 - In reply to #35574

pressure treated sealed with SPAR varnish, the floor of a lifetime!
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TXAggie

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Location: Howard Cty, MD

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Subject : RE: Replacing wood floor with rumber
Posted : 2006-01-17 3:01 PM
Post #35615 - In reply to #35574

If you can afford the difference, I'd recommend rumber.

http://www.rumber.com/prod01.htm

replace it once and forget it.  No more pulling rubber mats, slick spots, painting, soft spots.  Just hose it out after you use it and you're good to go.

I have it in my trailer and just love it.


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figero

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Subject : RE: Replacing floor
Posted : 2006-01-18 5:10 PM
Post #35687 - In reply to #35574

I think just about every manufacturer that use's wood flooring use's Treated lumber.

I have read somewhere on this site that Rumber needs support at about nine inch centers. So if you are wider  use wood, they have been useing it for a long time.


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Rander

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Subject : RE: Replacing floor
Posted : 2006-01-18 5:50 PM
Post #35691 - In reply to #35574

Rumber would probably be the best choice if your tailer has floor supports at no greater than 12" centers. Rumber does not have as much strength as wood of equal thickness. Also Rumber is more expensive initally but should work out economically over the long run. If you use PT wood there are some things that will make the installation safer and more durable. You are in California and the pressure treated wood available there is different than the Southern Yellow pine we see here in southeastern states. Here the problem is finding clear 2X PT lumber that can stand the weight of horses. It may be less of a problem there. Anyway, pick over the lumber stack and get boards with no knots or with only widely spaced tight knots of less than one inch in diameter. The chemicals used to pressure treat wood(CAQ or Copper Azole)are highly corrosive to steel and aluminum. Pressure treated wood must never be put in direct contact with aluminum or ungalvanived steel. What I have had some success with is putting two layers of neoprene tape between the wood and metal floor supports and anywhere else the wood contacts metal. The tape is a 4 ince wide neoprene tape home builders normally used to flash around windows and doors that I found at Home Depot and Lowes. Any fasteners to hold the boards down should be at least hot dipped galvanized screws, Stainless steel is best. Hope this is some help.
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