Posted 2014-12-28 7:49 AM (#162182) Subject: Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
Member
Posts: 34 Location: Spokane Wa
I have read most of the posts on here concerning corrosion and what to do ( Gard ). I have a Featherlite that I bought knowing the floor had some corrosion and about 10-12 holes being 1/4 to dime size. Some of the corrosion areas are very wormy/pitted ( not corroded all the way through ) but not a smooth surface. Would it be better to try and fill these areas in with some kind of epoxy by using a trowel making it smooth again and then doing the Duplicolor Bed Armor? Or should I just prep the floor ( while not filling in the pitted areas ) and apply the 2-3 coats of bed armor and let this fill in the low spots. And what is the best epoxy to use for filling holes? There the are several different kinds of JB Weld. I had an appointment to have an aluminum sheet overlay of the whole floor, by a very reputable Featherlite dealer. They don't fix any of the holes...they just prep it real well and then sheet it. They have done very many this way with success per their service manager. I would rather not do the sheeting and do the Bed Armor or have someone professionally line it with something like Rino Lining. Would lining it ( allowing the material filling the low spots ) be a good fix? I want to keep this trailer for years.Thank you...This is a great forum!
Posted 2014-12-28 8:00 AM (#162183 - in reply to #162182) Subject: RE: Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
Member
Posts: 34 Location: Spokane Wa
I called the manufacturer and talked with their professionals about this problem ( which they are very familiar with ) and they recommended to drill the holes out to 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch leaving the holes and then Rino/Bull line ect... They have also done the aluminum sheeting as well.
Posted 2014-12-28 7:05 PM (#162184 - in reply to #162182) Subject: RE: Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
Regular
Posts: 97 Location: mancelona michigan
If it were me,I would drill the holes out to good uncorroded metal,tig weld them shut and grind flush. But I have a tig machine,you probably dont,BUT your fab shop/dealer does and it would be way cheaper to have them do it my way.
Posted 2014-12-28 7:28 PM (#162185 - in reply to #162184) Subject: RE: Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
Expert
Posts: 1871 Location: NY
Originally written by trbomax on 2014-12-28 8:05 PM
If it were me,I would drill the holes out to good uncorroded metal,tig weld them shut and grind flush. But I have a tig machine,you probably dont,BUT your fab shop/dealer does and it would be way cheaper to have them do it my way.
this is what I would do leaving the hole could weaken the floor
Posted 2014-12-28 8:21 PM (#162186 - in reply to #162182) Subject: RE: Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
Expert
Posts: 5870 Location: western PA
Ditto. Adding another interior sheet metal over an unrepaired floor, will allow moisture to become trapped between the surfaces. A repaired existing floor will be better.
Posted 2014-12-31 3:51 PM (#162202 - in reply to #162182) Subject: RE: Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
Member
Posts: 34 Location: Spokane Wa
Thanks to all who responded...due to cost ( total floor replacement ) I am going to have a one piece 5052 installed and a continuous weld around the perimeter, then Duplicolor. Also will plug weld a grid throughout floor. I don't haul in the wintertime so the little salt brine that is used in my area shouldn't be a problem. I have talked with the largest Featherlite dealer in the PNW extensively concerning this problem...although they agree with Gard and his procedure ( being the best ), they sheet almost all of their problem floors due to cost and time. They have never had one come back per the the service manager who has been there over 15 yrs.
Another aluminum floor corrosion question?
